From the port we walked left to the Piazza Plebiscito, and then headed north on Toledo, Naples major shopping street. (We quickly learned to navigate busy intersections by following a local when they crossed.) In a tobacco shop we purchased a 3 Euro giornaliero (day pass good for all buses, funiculars, subway, and trams). Just off Toledo, we boarded the Centrale Funicular up to the Vomero neighborhood.
This area is a relaxing neighborhood, filled with trendy shops, cafes and gelaterias. With area’s higher elevation, it was less humid, and less hectic. We were in search of Gelateria Mario Daniele, which was mentioned in a great Italian food site www.arthurschwartz.com. Our search was interrupted by the gelato displays at Fantasia Gelati. A scoop of their lemon was a refreshing tonic for a hot day! Still in Vomero, strolling down Via Scarletti, we were sidetracked again at the Grand Café, the perfect spot for latte, chocolate croissants and people-watching. We never found Mario Daniele, but now having experienced Naples gelato we agree it’s hard to beat anywhere in the world!
Fueled with sugar and caffeine, we caught the metro at the Piazza Vanvitelli station. The metro was clean and a breeze to navigate with our day passes. We took it directly to Museo station, which connected to the Archeological Museum. This museum houses many of the artifacts recovered from both Pompeii and Hercureanalm. There is so much it can overwhelm. The black head carvings with white eyes were particularly intriguing.
From the museum, we walked south on Toledo to Dante’s Plaza, heading east along the Via S. Bagio del Librai. Mopeds and cars compete with the dense stream of students and tourists walking these narrow streets, packed with stores also spilling their goods into the streets. We were on a mission: to find Pizzeria La Michelle, deemed by many sources to be the best pizza in Naples, and in the world.
Just when we were about to give up, there it was on a narrow side street – with a crowd waiting to get in that was at least 30 people. We decided to explore the area more, and come back after the lunch rush. Back another hour later, the street was packed even more densely, mostly by people with guidebooks.
Not really hungry, we weren’t willing to wait out this crowd. We took a photo and headed back to the ship, arriving inside just as the skies opened and the heavy rainfall began. Next time, we will go to La Michelle for pizza first.
Back on board, Hotel Manager Francois Birarda, selected officers and senior staff hosted a champagne party in the Wajang Theater for the 44 guests staying onboard for the next Prinsendam sailing to the Black Sea. They shared insights for the next cruise, answered questions, and gave us some special offers including advance booking of shore excursions, spa and Pinnacle Grill reservations for the next cruise. This was a great touch, and allowed us to meet some of the other guests staying onboard! We also received a special note from the captain with chocolates in our stateroom, as well as a customized daily program, different from departing or arriving guests.
At dinner, it was time to say our goodbyes to our tablemates – a fantastic and diverse group of experienced travelers.
A with a storm raging outside, the last night of the cruise between Naples and Civitavecchia cruise was similar to the first night out of Ft. Lauderdale, with rough seas throughout the night.