Last month I had a business meeting in Des Moines, Iowa and drove from Kansas City.
It’s a monotonous 3-hour drive on Interstate 35.
When I was almost to Des Moines, I noticed a road sign at Exit 52 for St. Charles, Iowa. The sign mentioned a Welcome Center for the Bridges of Madison County and John Wayne’s Birthplace.
The next day during my drive from Des Moines back to Kansas City, I suddenly made the decision to take Exit 52 and briefly check out the covered bridges made famous by the book by Robert James Waller
From Exit 52, I followed Highway G-50 into the town of St. Charles, Iowa. Following the signs, my first bridge stop was just east of St. Charles.
Built in 1879, the Imes Covered Bridge it is the oldest of the Bridges of Madison County, which were covered to help preserve the large flooring timbers, since the flooring timbers were much more expensive to replace that the lumber used to construct the bridge sides and roofs. Originally built over the Middle River west of Patterson, Iowa, the Imes Covered Bridge was moved seven years later to Clanton Creek. The bridge was moved once again to its current location in 1977.
Back onto G-50, I headed west into the town of St. Charles, where I found the St. Charles Welcome Center on the south side of the road, in an old church. Inside, a very helpful woman gave me a map with all of the details and directions to see more of the six covered bridges, and to visit Winterset, home of one of the bridges, many of the movie filming locations, and the birthplace of Marion Robert Morrison, better known as John Wayne.
When I mentioned I needed a quick visit, the lady volunteering at the Welcome Center mapped out a route for me to see three more of the covered bridges, and to drive by the John Wayne birthplace and statue, and then get back to I-35 via Highway 92.
Per her instructions and the road signs, I continued west on G-50 until I saw the sign for the Holiwell Covered Bridge, which I had been warned, was on a gravel road.
The Holliwell Covered Bridge dates to 188o, and at 122 feet is the longest of Madison Counties covered bridges. It was featured in the movie, and was renovated in 1995. While one can walk across the bridge from either side, it is not open to vehicle traffic.
Following the gravel road leads you into Winterset, via some beautiful Iowa countryside.
Once into Winterset, I followed the signs to the City Park, location of the Cutler-Donahoe Covered Bridge. This bridge dates to 1870 and was originally located near Bevington over the North River. The bridge was moved to Winterset’s City Park in 1970.
The arched stone bridge in Winterset City Park was featured in The Bridges of Madison County
Taking a left turn out of the park onto South Street, I headed about six blocks to the corner of South and 2nd streets. Here is the 4-room home where actor John Wayne began his life as Marion Robert Morrison on May 26, 1907.
Since it was 4:25 pm, I didn’t go in the John Wayne Birthplace and Welcome Center. It’s open seven days a week between 10 am and 4:30 pm, major holidays excluded.
Following South Street one more block, I hit John Wayne Drive, a renamed part of Highway 169, and turned right. On the right-hand side of the road sits the John Wayne statue.
Continuing north on John Wayne Drive, I passed by this impressive limestone Madison County Courthouse, which dates to 1876. Continuing north, I hit Highway 92 just at the edge of Winterset, turning right.
In a few miles I turned left, following the signs for 1.8 miles to the location of the Cedar Covered Bridge. This bridge was featured on the cover of the Bridges of Madison County book. The bridge was destroyed by arson in 2002. A replica was constructed in 2004.
Back to Highway 92, I headed east back to Interstate 35. My quick little side trip had taken about an hour and a half.
When I got home, I was inspired to re-read the book:
and re-watch the movie, which I was surprised to learn was directed and produced by Clint Eastwood:
To learn more about John Wayne, check out:
Have you visited the Bridges of Madison County?
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