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Thursday was a glorious sun-filled day in Lisbon. I had stayed up late the prior night visiting with new friends who were departing the cruise in Lisbon. About 200 guests departed with another 200 new joining the ship.

As soon as the ship cleared, we were off – walking about a mile and a half to the Praíca Do Comercio, the main square on the waterfront, with the beautiful Augusta Triumph Arch leading to the Baixa neighborhood.

Here we located the tourist information office on the west side of the square, and while waiting in line, picked up a brochure for Lisbon Inside Walking Tours. We’ve enjoyed walking tours in other cities and decided “why not?”

We located the meeting place at the Praíca D. Pedro, and at 10 am started the three hour Original Lisbon Walk. Nauda, our tour guide, was friendly and knowledgeable; our group included just one other couple from Australia.

Nauda showed us many of the sites in the downtown Baixa district, including a climb to the top of the St. Justa Elevator, which provided excellent views in all directions. She walked us to the site of the 1974 Carnation Revolution.

Next, Nauda guided us onto the old-fashioned Tram #25 which took the twisting route up hill through Old Lisbon’s cobblestone maze, the Alfama neighborhood. These Trams are similar to San Francisco’s cable cars. Besides seeing all of the cathedrals and historical sites, our favorite part was climbing through the narrow streets of the Alfama.

The locals were building platforms for a festival around June 12, which Nauda described as eating grilled sardines and drinking red wine all night long. This area has many of the taverns where the Fado music is performed.

It was unusually warm in Lisbon, over 90 degrees, and after the walk we were ready for some cold drinks and lunch. Since we had many things still on our “to see” list, we ate at Sudies, a sandwich and salad chain similar to Subway and a deal at 10 Euro for the both of us. After our quick lunch we boarded the new tram #15, taking us west to the Belém district (this tram can also take you from where the ship docks to the Praca Do Comercio, the fare can be paid onboard).

Here we visited (and climbed) the landmark Tower of Belem, built between 1515 and 1521, which looks like an elegantly-carved chess piece. We also visited the Monument to the Discoveries.

We enjoyed strolling through the expansive parks in this area before catching the #15 back to the port.

Back on board, the weather was perfect for a glorious sail away. Frank Buckingham, the port lecturer, provided expert commentary as we sailed out along the Tagus River, past the 752 ft Christ the Redeemer statue, commemorating the kinship with sister city Rio de Janeiro, and under the Salazar suspension bridge (a copy of San Francisco’s Golden Gate).

We didn’t make it to the Gulbenkian Museum, housing the collections from the tycoon Calouste Sarkis Gulbenkian, but our well-traveled tablemates did and thought it was one of the best museums in Europe. Well, there’s always next time.

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Today we are experiencing gale force winds so there is some rocking on board. It is a day of “resting up” as we will visit 12 ports over the next 13 days.

Yesterday we were in Funchal, in the Madeira Islands. We headed off the ship as soon as it was cleared, ready to walk. Partly sunny with fog at the higher elevations, it was perfect weather for exploring. We walked along the waterfront promenade about 1.5 miles to the cable car station.

Opened in 2000, the cable car takes you two miles up to Monte in about 10 minutes. The view of the Funchal harbor is stunning for the 10 Euro one-way fare. (Several shore excursions include the cable car with a bus delivering guests directly to the station.)

At Monte – about 2000 feet above sea level – we visited the Nossa Senhora do Monte, a hilltop church where Austrian Emperor Carlos I is buried. This area is also home to a botanical garden, and bright flowers and lush fauna are everywhere.

Near the base of the church is the starting point of the wooden toboggans. Originally these wicker sleds were a necessary form of transportation to move goods on the steep slopes.

Today (and for the past 100 years) they are a tourist attraction. You pay about 15 euros for 1 person or 25 euros for 2 or 37 euros for 3 to ride in the padded wicker chair on the wooden sled. Two men push and then guide you down the steep blacktop street, for 2 kilometers.

The ride is quite exhilarating, especially when you see cars passing in front of you on cross streets! The guides are quite good at steering, however. On our trip, they waxed the runners, probably making our ride a little faster than some. Great fun!

Of course, we had to buy the photo at the bottom. Taxis are available but we wanted to walk. It is all downhill back into the main city, but a very steep descent. We got quite warm on this hike, so we stopped several times at little “snack” stands – which sold cold Coral beers for 1 to 2 Euros each.

Back into the main section of Funchal, we visited a Madeira wine history museum which had no entrance fee and included a low-key Madeira wine tasting.

We were surprised to learn there are 4 types of Madeira – from sweet to medium dry to dry. Even the dry Madeira was somewhat sweet to us, plus strong at 11:15 am.

Next we had lunch at Restaurant A Pipa on the Rua da Queimada de Cima. We had chicken and steak entrees – both with Madeira wine and mushroom sauce.

After lunch, we explored to find the post office, and the central market. Walking in Funchal is quite pleasant, especially on the wide pedestrian-only boulevards.

Back on board, the weather was perfect for a glorious sail away. Since we figured that we walked about 10 miles, we sat in the 8th deck hot tub and soaked our sore muscles as the Prinsendam sailed by the islands of Madeira and then Porto Santo (where Columbus married a local girl and lived).

Since it was our wedding anniversary, we celebrated with a late dinner at the Pinnacle Grill. All in all, a great day!

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Losing Hours, but not losing sleep

Happy Mothers’ Day!

At 12 noon today, this ship’s clocks once again moved ahead another hour.  This is the fourth hour we have gained since leaving Ft. Lauderdale.  The first time change was the typical “move your clocks an hour ahead tonight” , while the last three have been at noon.  This is supposed to be less stressful on your body and better for a restful nights sleep.  On the days with these moves, the lunch schedule also moves back.  We don’t notice the missing hour either way as there is plenty of time for napping while soaking up sunshine on deck.

Taking seven days at sea on this ship to cross the Atlantic beats a crammed seat on a transatlantic flight any day. If you have the time, the transatlantic sailing is the only way to get to Europe.

We slept in this morning after last nights’ activities: Ferdinand’s excellent Sommelier Dinner in the Pinnacle Grill, the Filipino Crew Show, and piano music by Buddy in the Crow’s Nest.  The intimate nature of the ms Prinsendam makes it easy to get to know other guests and results in more socializing for us.

Five Pin bowling became a very different activity today.  It involved 5 “pins” about 2 inches tall, that one attempt to knock down by putting a golf ball at them from a distance.  What will this cruise staff think of next?  Janis – who is not a golfer – made it to the finals and won the play-off, coming in 2nd over all.  Perhaps she missed her sport?

Today was perfect for sunning, although our previous “hidden” sunning spot on deck 8 has now been discovered.  Tonight is the Mariner Society Reception.

Below, the menu from the six-course Sommelier wine-pairing dinner on May 12. (We particularly enjoyed the Chenin Blanc from South Africa and the Sancerre and Scallop pairing):

Seared Quail breast with Foie Gras and port wine jus,

accompanied with Willamette Valley Pinot Noir, from Oregon

 

Roasted beet root and goat cheese gateaux,

complemented by Ken Forrester Petit Chenin Blanc, from South Africa

 

Clear Oxtail Consommé,

Along with Chateau St. Michelle Horse Heaven Sauvignon Blanc, from Washington

 

Pan Seared Sea Scallops with Cardamom Essence and Balsamic Glazed Strawberry, matched with Michel Redde Sancerre, from France

 

Orange spoom,

crafted with Domaine St. Michelle sparkling wine

 

Grilled Sterling Silver Fillet Mignon with Shallot marmalade and morel cream sauce, served with L’Ecole Merlot from Walla Walla, Washington

 

And

The Prinsendam Grand Finale dessert,

paired with a tawny port wine from Australia.

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The sea is smooth as glass today, appearing to be an vast and magnificent infinity pool, waiting for you to jump in. The ship feels like it is barely moving, but the electronic displays shows we are heading towards Funchal, Madeira near top speed at nearly 20 knots.

Schools of flying fish, gliding just above the waterline before indelicaltly crash-landing back into the ocean, entertained us as we walked around the promenade deck on our morning walk.

In the Culinary Arts Center, Pinnacle Grill Chef Ani gave a cooking demonstration on the cuisine of India, his homeland. We learned to make Eggplant and Potato Curry as well as Indian split pea and vegetable soup, which was quite tasty.  It was interesting to learn that Indian curries differ by region, with cream and nuts being used in the western regions such as Bombay, while southern India curries often contain fresh coconut milk.

Moose tossing with assistant cruise director Sparky was the most unusual activity of the day. This involved tossing three different sized stuff moose in the Atrium on Level 5 , with the objective of getting each moose into the small net below on Level 4.  Since Jeff is an Alaskan, this was right up his alley, and we both scored more DAM dollars.

We will miss being with our Mothers tomorrow.  Happy Mother’s Day to Marion and Mary! (we promise to call on Tuesday in Funchal.)

Tonight we are looking forward to attending a six course wine and food pairing dinner in the Pinnacle Grill.  Hosted by Ferdinand the sommelier, it should be an exciting evening.  We enjoyed his wine tasting event earlier in the week where he demonstrated the art of Sabrage (opening champagne by cutting off the top of the bottle with a saber).

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