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There are numerous sites to enjoy during a visit to Oslo, Norway — from the angry baby statute at Vigeland Sculpture Park, to explorer Thor Heyerdahl’s Kon-Tiki raft, to the Oslo City Hall where the Nobel Peace Prize is awarded each December.

City Hall, Oslo, NorwayOne famous Oslo highlight we’ve never managed to see during our visits: The Scream painting by Nordic artist Edvard Munch.

"The Scream" by Norwegian artist Edvard Munch.

“The Scream” by Norwegian artist Edvard Munch.

A pioneer of expressionism, Munch’s most famous painting portrays an agonized figure set against a blood red sky, with the Oslo fjord landscape in the background.

Two locations to view The Scream

Munch created multiple versions of The Scream in different media between 1893 and 1910. The earliest painted version is housed in the National Gallery of Norway.

The National Gallery (written as Nasjonalgalleriet in Norwegian) is located at
Universitetsgata 13, which is about a 20-minute walk from the waterfront/city hall area.

Home to Norway’s largest public collection of paintings, drawings and sculptures (including Edvard Munch’s “Madonna” and “The Scream”) the National Gallery is closed on Mondays.

On Thursdays, admission is free. For visits on other days of the week, adult admission costs 120.00 Norwegian kroner, with discounts for students and seniors. Children under 18 are free. The National Gallery entry ticket is also valid on the same day at the Museum of Contemporary Art and the National Museum – Architecture.

Visitors who purchase the Oslo Pass receive free admission to the National Museum.

Norwegian painter Edvard Munch in 1933.

Norwegian painter Edvard Munch in 1933.

The Munch Museum

The Munch Museum — located farther from Oslo’s waterfront at 53 Tøyengata — houses two other versions of The Scream along with a large collection of other artworks left to the city of Oslo by Edvard Munch.

While open daily 10 am to 5 pm during the summer season, the Munch Museum is closed on Tuesdays during the rest of the year.

Admission is 120.00 Norwegian kroner for adults, and free for those under age 18. Visitors with the Oslo Pass get free entry.

Resources for More on Edvard Munch

To learn more about Edvard Munch, check out these books:
Edvard Munch: 1863-1944

Edvard Munch: Behind the Scream Edvard Munch: Between the Clock and the Bed

Have you viewed one or more versions of The Scream in Oslo?

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We recently returned from a trip to Chengdu, China,  a the capital city of the Sichuan province known for panda bears, spicy food and face-changing opera.

Interact with us on Twitter, Facebook, Pinterest or Instagram.While we thoroughly enjoyed our stay in this rapidly-growing city of more than 14 million people in Western China, we have some tips to share if you are planning a visit.

China blocks many familiar and frequently-used websites and apps such as Google, Facebook, Instagram and many others. If you rely on these applications to stay in touch, you will will find them not working when you try to access them in China. Work around this issue by getting a VPN before you go.

A VPN is a virtual private network within the wider internet that allows users to send and receive data while maintaining the secrecy of a private network. We used Express VPM  which cost about $12 for a month of use.

English is not commonly  spoken or understood — even by taxi drivers, hotel bellman and tour guides — in Chengdu. Of course there are exceptions but it is good to have a translator on your smartphone. Google Translate works if you have a VPN, but the free, basic Pleco app works better in China. Pleco is an all-in-one Chinese dictionary and document reading app that is available for use with iPhone, iPad, or iPods as well as Android devices.

While free Wi-Fi is available in China, it can be difficult to access without knowing Mandarin and having a local phone number. If you want to have readily available, inexpensive mobile Wi-Fi, get a Glocal Me my-fi device (works in many countries around the world)

Via AMAZON, we bought the GlocalMe G3 4G LTE Mobile Hotspot. This device (which is about the size of an iPhone 6) worked great to leave on and carry in our day bag – giving us fast Wi-Fi everywhere we went. (We also used this device while traveling in Europe and Japan.)

Mobile payments by smartphone are used everywhere in Chengdu, but Apply Pay is not a frequently used platform. While we didn’t use it, WeChat is widely utilized for communications and payments. We would advise downloading and setting up the WeChat app before you travel to China.

For payments, we used cash, withdrawing Chinese yuan from ATMs. For a rough estimate of how much something cost in US dollars, we divided the yuan price by 6 and rounded up.

Designated by the Chinese government as the country’s western center of logistics, commerce, finance, science and technology hubs, Chengdu is a vibrant, ever-changing city that’s fascinating to visit.

Have you visited Chengdu, China? What know-before-you-go travel tip can you add?

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15 Fun Facts About Horta, Azores

In early April, we hope to visit the Azores via a transatlantic cruise.  Several years ago we planned to visit these Portuguese islands in the Atlantic Ocean during a cruise from Spain to Florida. Unfortunately, the port call was canceled due to poor weather conditions. This year, our cruise itinerary includes two stops in the Azores: first in Horta, on the island the island of Faial; followed by a port call in Ponta Delgada, on São Miguel Island.

Wanting to make the most of our day, we did a little research to learn the city of Horta on the Azorean island of Faial.

Horta, Faial, Azores, Portugal

The City of Horta and Horta Bay, Azores.

15 Fun Facts About Horta, Azores

1. The city of Horta is home to approximately 7,000 people, making it the largest municipality on the Azorean island of Faial.

2. Known as the “blue island” due to the plethora of blue-colored hydrangeas that bloom every summer, Faial Island covers 68 square miles and has a population of 15,038.

3. Horta is capital of the island of Faial, and is also the home of the Azorean regional parliament.

4. During the 18th and 19th centuries, the small town of Horta prospered as a stopover on transatlantic sailing routes between Europe and the New World. Horta became an important stop for North American whalers, and as a refueling port for coal-powered ships during their transatlantic passages.

A vista of the village of Horta, Faial from the New Bedford Whaling Museum, c.1842 (Purrington & Russel)

A vista of the village of Horta, Faial from the New Bedford Whaling Museum, c.1842 (Purrington & Russel)

5. Horta also served as the staging and export center for Azorean goods being shipped to Europe or North America. Exports included Azorean oranges, whale oil, woad (a plant used to make blue dye), and  wines from the nearby island of Pico.

6. In August. 1893 the first underwater telegraph cables linked Horta and Lisbon. Horta became an important post in intercontinental communications between 1893 and 1969.

7. Horta also played a role in aviation history when U.S. Navy Captain Albert C. Read piloted his NC-4 float plane into the Bay of Horta in May, 1919. This was the first Atlantic leg of the first transatlantic flight.

Pan Am Yankee Clipper flying boat, 1939

The Pan American World Airways Boeing 314 Yankee Clipper (serial NC18603), circa 1939. This aircraft started the Transatlantic mail service.

8. On May 20, 1939 Pan American’s B-314 Yankee Clipper departed New York for the first scheduled mail service across the Atlantic. The ship flew the across the southern Atlantic, stopping in Horta before landing in Lisbon after 27 hours of flight time.

9. On June 28, 1939, Horta became a scheduled way point on the new Pan Am Clipper flying boat routes between North America and Europe. The flying boats would dock in Horta harbor.

10. By 1960, yachts began using Horta’s sheltered port during transatlantic voyages.

Pier at Horta Marina. Photo by Jameslwoodward.

A pier at Horta Marina, showing calling cards of visiting yachts painted on the ground. Photo by Jameslwoodward.

The walls and walkways of the Horta marina are covered with visitor paintings that note the vessels, crews, and the years they visited.

11. Peter’s Cafe Sport, a restaurant and bar located across from the marina in Horta, is known world-wide as a meeting place for visiting sailors, as well as its gin and tonics.

Anthony Bourdain visits Peter’s Cafe Sport during his Season 5 No Reservations show on the Azores.

12. The cafe is also home to Peter’s Scrimshaw Museum which houses a significant collection of artifacts and artwork carved from whale tooth and jawbone. Sailors on whaling vessels would create scrimshaw handicrafts to alleviate the monotony and boredom during the long days at sea between the occasional excitement of chasing and capturing a whale.

13. The Horta Regional Museum houses a permanent exhibit detailing the 1957 volcanic eruption in the Azores, called the Exhibition of Capelinhos Volcano.  Visitors to this Horta museum can also view a collection of scale models of buildings, ships, and people carved from fig kernels.


14. Mark Twain visited Horta in June 1867, near the beginning of a long pleasure-cruise  to Jerusalem. Twain described his visit to Horta in his semi-autobiographical book The Innocents Abroad, complimenting the physical appearance of Horta:

The town has eight thousand to ten thousand inhabitants. Its snow-white houses nestle cosily in a sea of fresh green vegetation, and no village could look prettier or more attractive. It sits in the lap of an amphitheater of hills which are three hundred to seven hundred feet high, and carefully cultivated clear to their summits – not a foot of soil left idle.

Twain was less complimentary about the inhabitants of Horta and Faial at the time:

The group on the pier was a rusty one — men and women, and boys and girls, all ragged, and barefoot, uncombed and unclean, and by instinct, education, and profession, beggars. They trooped after us, and never more, while we tarried in Fayal, did we get rid of them.

Monte Da Guia, Horta, on the Azorean island of Faial.

Monte Da Guia connects to the city of Horta, on the Azorean island of Faial.

15. Monte Da Guia is a piece of land on a volcanic cone. Hiking this area offers a fantastic view of the city of Horta and the Porto Pim Bay.

To Learn More About the Azores:

Check out these resources:

Top 10 Azores

Michelin Green Guide Portugal Madeira The Azores

Have you visited Horta or other islands of the Azores?

If so, let us know your favorite spots via TwitterFacebookPinterest or Instagram.

 

 

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We rang in 2018 while sailing on Holland America Line’s ms Koningsdam cruise ship in the Western Caribbean.

Holland America Line, ms Koningsdam, Georgetown, Grand CaymanWhile we’ve previously enjoyed two other cruises on 2,650-guest ms Koningsdam (including a July, 2016 Norway cruise and a November, 2016 cruise to the Southern Caribbean), we found some new ways to appreciate this ship during this New Year’s Holiday cruise.

Georgetown, Grand Cayman was one of four ports during our 7-day cruise. Georgetown is a tender port and is also a popular cruise port; we appreciated that Holland America used local large-capacity tenders to speed guests getting off and back onto the ship.

lido pool, Koningsdam cruise ship, Holland America LineWe avoided the rush to get off the ship in Georgetown and other ports.  Instead of joining the crowd hurrying to get off the ship when it was in port, we spent relaxed mornings enjoying the mostly empty ship. While the Lido Pool area on the Koningsdam was packed on sea days, it was quiet when the ship was in port.

Holiday cruises include special decorations around the ship; notice the subtle silver ornaments to the left side of the pool in the photo above.

Panorama Deck, Koningsdam cruise ship, Holland America LineA unique feature on the Koningdam — compared to other Holland America ships — is the Panaroma Deck. These comfy chairs and couches that overlook the lido pool are a hot ticket on sea days, but when there is plenty of space when the ship is in port.

Dutch Cafe, Koningsdam cruise ship, Holland America LineAnother venue that we love on the Koningsdam is the Dutch Cafe. It has very special decorations for the holiday cruises.  The windows in the cafe area were decorated to look like a Dutch city at Christmas.

holiday decorations, Dutch Cafe, Koningsdam cruise ship, Holland America LineThe Dutch-inspired decorations were three-dimensional, and quite detailed.

flowers, Koningsdam cruise ship, Holland America LineFresh flowers are always a signature trademark of Holland America ships. This unique arrangement included the exotic “Monkey tails” plants.

crab legs, Koningsdam cruise ship, Holland America LineWe always enjoy the Pinnacle Grill specialty restaurant on Holland America ships. Usually, the best choices at the Pacific Northwest-inspired steak restaurant is filet migon.  We branched out — and are happy to report that Mr. Jones (a native Alaskan) gives two thumbs up to the Alaskan King crab legs on the Koningsdam cruise ship.

Cioppino, Pinnacle Grill, Koningsdam cruise ship, Holland America LineMeanwhile, I found the cioppino to be packed with flavorful, fresh seafood.

COURVOISIER NAPOLEON COGNAC, Koningsdam cruise ship, Holland America LineWe tried the Elite Beverage Package on this cruise. By purchasing this drink package, we were able to try new-to-us wines and spirits. As an after dinner drink in the Pinnacle Grill, Mr. Jones tried the Courvoisier Napoleon Cognac.

Jeorge, Koningsdam cruise ship, Holland America LineThis is Jeorge, the hospitality superstar who manages Notes whiskey bar. It is an intimate tasting bar with a large variety of brown spirits from around the World.

Have you sailed on Holland America’s ms Koningsdam? Do you have a favorite highlight from your time on the ship?

Please let us know.  

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Check out these other Koningsdam posts:

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