Last December we spent three nights in Rome, Italy before
joining a transatlantic cruise.
Since we stayed in Rome’s Prati neighborhood at the Le Meridien Visconti, we focused on finding places to eat and drink that were within walking distance from our hotel.
1. Trattoria Cacio e Pepe, Via Giuseppe Avezzana, 11
We learned about Trattoria Cacio e Pepe from an Anthony Bourdain episode on Rome.
I ordered the namesake dish, Cacio e Pepe — the simple Roman pasta with cheese and pepper.
Mr. Jones had the same dish, with bacon. Was it Carbonara, or was it
Cacio e Pepe with bacon on top? We aren’t sure, but both pasta dishes were delicious with red wine. This is a terrific place to try Rome’s simplest pasta.
2. Porto Fish and Chips, Via Crescenzio, 56
Calamari and shrimp appetizer at Porto.
Our dinner at Porto Fish and Chips began with the Calamari e Gamberi appetizer, a good choice. The fresh seafood was lightly battered and fried crispy.
For his entree, Mr Jones chose the Grigliata Mista (a plate of various grilled fish and seafood.)
I could not resist ordering the Cacio e Pepe Di Mare which added shrimp into Rome’s simple pasta dish. Every bite was filled with creamy goodness. Although it was a rich dish, I enjoyed every bite, vowing to walk an extra 5,000 steps to compensate.
Porto was a little touristy but we enjoyed the food and our waiter, who played American football in an Italian league.
3. Dino Express, Via Tacito 80
While exploring the Prati neighborhood during our last full day in Rome, we stumbled upon Dino Express as we were looking for somewhere to have a late lunch. The tiny hostaria was packed, but we got seated at the last open table.
What followed was one of our best (and most local) eating experiences in Rome. The owner, Dino, explained the menu off a handwritten notepad. When Mr. Jones asked some questions in fractured Italian, Dino asked him to wait.
A minute later the cook came to our table (he was the only one who spoke any English.) He was very patient in answering a few questions about the menu. The food was hearty and delicious, perfect for a winter day. The atmosphere was loud and a bit chaotic but was also friendly.
There are no prices on the menu at Dino Express. Dino wrote our bill on the tablecloth. Two courses for two, bottle of house wine, bottle of sparkling water came to 41€, reduced to 40 Euros since Dino did not have change.
4. Il Sorpasso, Via Properzio 31
During our research on the Prati neighborhood, we found consistent recommendations for Il Sorpasso — described as “a refreshingly non-touristy restaurant” that is “trendy but friendly” “without the pretenses that would usually come along with its well-dressed crowd.”
We found Il Sorpasso to be a lively and friendly local place. We had no reservations but the Matre ‘d said he could fit us in if we agreed to free up the table within 90 minutes for a later reservation. We agreed and were promptly seated.
The waiter patiently went over the specials and we settled into a great dinner. We found Il Sorpasso to be reasonably priced with high-quality food.
We started with a plate of cured meat (sliced from the hanging inventory of dried meats at the front of the restaurant), and a salad that was more than large enough for two people. Our entrees — one fish, one pasta, were as delicious as was the people-watching in this rustic but chic restaurant.
5. Kiarotti Wine Via Giuseppe Gioachino Belli, 70
We discovered the Kiarotti Wine Shop while walking outside our hotel as it is literally across the street from the Le Meridien Visconti. While we visited in order to buy several bottles of Italian wine, we ended up spending several hours in this cafe/coffee shop/wine tasting destination.
We loved the hospitality and the Italian wine education we received while working our way through the hand-written menu of vini al calice (wines by the glass) that changes weekly.
If we lived in Rome’s Prati neighborhood, we’d be regulars at the Kiarotti Wine Shop for a morning coffee, a before-dinner glass of wine, and/or to purchase a bottle of the latest featured wines.
Have you visited Rome’s Prati neighborhood? What was your favorite place to eat or drink?
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